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A glossary of forgotten foods
Barm
The living yeast foam skimmed from brewing beer — how bakers raised bread before packet yeast existed.
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Blancmange
Not a pudding: the original was shredded chicken with rice and almond milk, and it was served at every great table.
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forgotten medieval feast dishes
Chisaya mama (quinoa)
The Inca "mother grain" — not a cereal at all, and the crop that made farming the high Andes possible.
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Colatura di alici
The anchovy liquid still made on the Amalfi coast — the closest living relative of Roman garum.
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Defrutum
Grape must boiled down to a dark, sweet syrup — the Roman kitchen's sugar, colouring and body all at once.
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Douchi
Salted, fermented black soybeans — the umami engine of the Han-dynasty kitchen, and the ancestor of soy sauce.
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Einkorn
The oldest cultivated wheat — "single grain", genetically the simplest, and barely able to make a loaf.
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Emmer
One of the first domesticated wheats — the grain of Egyptian bread, Roman puls and the Fertile Crescent.
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Fonio
West Africa's tiny, fast-growing "hungry rice" — ready in weeks, and one of the oldest cereals in cultivation.
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Frumenty
Cracked wheat cooked in broth or milk, gilded with saffron — the medieval feast's default accompaniment.
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Garum
The fermented fish sauce that seasoned nearly every Roman dish — the empire's salt and stock in a single bottle.
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Grains of paradise
A peppery, faintly floral West African spice that medieval Europe adored and modern kitchens abandoned.
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Gruit
The herb mixture that flavoured beer before hops — and the tax that came with it.
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Hardtack
Flour and water baked until nearly all moisture is gone — the edible foundation of the Age of Sail.
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Helvahane
The Ottoman palace's dedicated sweet kitchen — a confectionery workshop inside Topkapı.
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Hippocras
Spiced, sweetened wine strained through a cloth sleeve — the drink that closed a medieval feast.
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Long pepper
The pepper the West forgot — hotter, sweeter and more complex than the black peppercorn that replaced it.
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Marchpane
The Tudor sugar-and-almond showpiece: a decorated disc, gilded and iced, eaten at the banquet course.
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forgotten medieval feast dishes
Masa
The nixtamalized maize dough at the base of tortillas, tamales and most of the Mesoamerican kitchen.
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Maslin
Wheat and rye sown together in one field — medieval crop insurance, baked into a loaf.
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Melas zomos (black broth)
The Spartan dish of pork boiled with blood and vinegar that the rest of Greece could not stomach.
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Milpa
Maize, beans and squash grown together — a farming system that feeds the soil as well as the people.
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Moretum
A pounded Roman cheese-and-herb paste, described in a poem about a poor farmer's breakfast.
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Nixtamalization
Cooking maize in an alkaline solution of lime or wood ash — the technique that made a maize civilisation possible.
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Pech
The great Russian masonry oven — a heat store so large it cooked, dried and warmed the house for a day.
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Pottage
The thick one-pot stew of grain, pulses and vegetables that was the daily meal of medieval Europe.
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Poudre douce
The medieval cook's house spice blend — the mixed spice of its day, kept ready-mixed on the shelf.
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Puls
The thick emmer porridge that fed the Roman Republic long before bread took over the city.
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Silphium
The Roman world's most prized seasoning — harvested to extinction, and tasted by no living person.
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Skyr
The thick Icelandic cultured dairy the Norse carried at sea — technically a cheese, not a yoghurt.
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Small ale
Weak, nourishing everyday ale — drunk by adults and children alike, and not a route to drunkenness.
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Stockfish
Cod air-dried to the hardness of wood — the protein that carried Norse ships across the Atlantic.
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Subtlety
Edible sculpture carried in between feast courses — part dessert, part propaganda.
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Tahdig
The golden crust at the bottom of the Persian rice pot — the most fought-over part of the meal.
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Teff
The minuscule Ethiopian grain behind injera — and one of the most nutritious cereals grown anywhere.
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Trencher
A thick slice of stale bread used as an edible plate at the medieval table.
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Umu / hāngī
The buried earth oven: fire-heated stones, food wrapped in leaves, and hours of trapped steam.
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Verjuice
The sharp juice of unripe grapes — the acid that medieval cooking reached for where we reach for lemon.
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Yatai
The portable food stalls of Edo — where sushi, tempura and soba were invented as fast street food.
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